Good food

  It suddenly snowed in Shanghai, and snow fell in many cities, except Beijing.
  In the past few days, Beijing has remained clean and light gray, like a layer of tulle, and people are sitting and lying under the gauze. Friends from Shanghai quipped: “It’s snowing in Beijing, southeast and northwest, Beijing people are too
  faceless .” I have been to Shanghai two weeks ago, there was no snow for a while, but just cooled down, it’s suitable for meeting with friends for dinner-not to mention It was the “Xuan Yi Ban” that Mr. Zhan Hongzhi spent four days preparing.
  Zhan Hongzhi’s wife, Wang Xuanyi, is a novelist and a foodie. Unfortunately, he died of a myocardial infarction near a train station in a small town in Italy three years ago. The mainland has recently published her old essay “National Banquet and Family Banquet”, which contains a new article by Mr. Zhan, which records how he personally cooks in the past three years. Miss Wang Xuanyi in taste enjoyment. He joked that this is a copycat version of “Xuan Yi Yan”, which not only shows that all dishes are derived from Xuan Yi’s previous cooking techniques, he has no intention of innovation or improvement, but also that his replication needs to be improved, imitation and learning may not be in place If there is a difference in taste, blame him and not her.
  The end of the article is very touching: “This is a sentimental surprise banquet. Participants saw Wusi people, of course, they are not without feelings, but it is a bit surprised and delighted to see the dishes that were familiar in the past reappear on the table. If the dishes imitated can really be close to the original, it is a miracle of rebirth. Most of the guests are old friends of Xuan Yi, who have eaten her dishes for many years and are worried about my future. This banquet revolves around a Between a passing friend and a passing time, joyous words and exclamation, it is also informative. It seems to say, yes, we have lost her, but she is still in our hearts, and the taste is still there. , We will not forget. And, do n’t worry, I ’m lonely, but I will live alive. You see, now I have the ability to live my life as before, thank you. ”
  This time, Zhan Hongzhi held a “Xuan Yi Ban” in Shanghai, invited Cai Kangyong, Zhuang Zuyi, Mao Jian and other friends, I am also here. It is true that Wang Xuanyi is still around Zhan Hongzhi in the chat room and the eating and drinking room-he is telling the story constantly, and she looks at him with a smile and nods slightly to express support and approval. People are not there, dishes are in; the former is God’s will, the latter is artificial. Heaven’s will is more ruthless and helpless, and the more it is necessary for people to grind their teeth and work hard, the purpose is not necessarily to “win the sky”, but not to surrender to Heaven. Only in this way can both the deceased and the living be present and continue to exist with more dignity.
  I quit beef for four years. That night, in Shanghai, at the “Xuan Yi Ban”, I used chopsticks to put Wang Xuan’s specialty braised beef before his life into my mouth, and my tongue and heart were hot. Breaking the ring is worth it.
  I broke the ring to miss my old friend. I have to admit that the first bite is quite fishy, ​​but it has nothing to do with cooking techniques, because my taste buds are no longer suitable for the incredibly meaty flavours in the past. Like lovers who have broken up for many years, they need some old feelings. time.
  Oh, the time I need is actually very short, only one minute.
  There was a fishy smell in the first mouth, as well as in the second and third mouths, but by the fourth mouth, the fishy smell had been reduced to the weakest level, and the strong meaty smell poured into the throat, as if meeting with an old friend, with me The tongue has warm topics that can’t be talked about.
  But I still secretly worry. A friend who listened to quit eating beef but broke the ring said that his tongue adapts quickly, but his stomach is not necessarily. He ate beef again. He pulled his stomach for three days, vomited and diarrhea, and had a fever. Finally, he could stop it after seeing a doctor. I was afraid of repeating the same mistakes, so I strangled my horse and did n’t dare to be too pretentious. I only ate a few pieces of beef, but I chopped off the whole bowl of gravy to get rice, as if I only left a grain of rice.
  The braised beef passed down from Wang Xuanyi’s mother was only selected from the tendon of the front leg, and then served with about half of the tendon. The tendons and tendons are cut into large pieces. From the cross section of the tendons, you can see the layers of beautiful texture lines. The clearer the lines, the better the meat quality.
  However, no matter how good the meat is, it takes three days of repeated stewing to become a good dish. Turn on the fire and cool; then turn on the fire and cool again, without adding pepper or spice, just add some wine and ginger, and add watercress soy sauce and rock sugar. The braised beef made in this way is worth insisting on, even as Wang Xuanyi said in “National Banquet and Family Banquet”: “Beef tendons and rock sugar create a thick gum, which is best for rice. If someone wants beef noodles It can only be dried noodles. If someone said that he added water to cook beef noodle soup or radish to stew, it will be punished by my sister and removed from the list of gifts next time. We think this is a great waste. It ’s our hard work, because they do n’t know how to appreciate it. ”
  Wang Xuanyi advocated that his“ one-of-a-kind beef ”must be eaten, eat the remaining soup, put it in the refrigerator to freeze, and then directly cut it as“ spicy ” Come and eat, this is the greatest respect for the hard work.
  ”It takes three generations to eat”, and the philosophy of life is also left in the process of inheriting culinary skills from generation to generation. Wang Xuan was a feast, occasionally lazy, and put the materials directly on the plate-sea cucumber cut into large pieces, whole mushrooms, and scallops were not torn, “My mother rebuked me, so rude, it is good to hide inside, how can Such a swagger? It’s ugly to die, like a nouveau riche. Her cooking concept is always the concept of making eggplant in “Dream of Red Mansions”. If you eat it all at once, all the skills are self-evident, that’s the real good thing. ”
  Eating well is taking life seriously and is full of beauty. Therefore, good food is called “gourmet”. The flesh is the spirit, metaphysical and metaphysical.